Temperament and Puppy Development II
By Jerry Hope
In the first part of this series, we covered the natural instincts of a dog,
often referred to as “drives.” In this part, we will cover the beginning
development of those drives and at what age they should be initiated.
I
begin by allowing the mother and pups to rest on the first day after birth, with
only a minimal amount of contact. On the second day, I begin to handle the pups.
If it’s a breed that requires the removal of dew claws or tail docking, I try to
have them removed on the second or third day.
On day four, I take each
pup through a “Bio-Sensor” routine. The Bio-Sensor routine, or “Super-Dog”
routine, is a series of simple daily exercises that are performed on each pup
for fourteen days. It is designed to produce a very limited amount of stress,
allowing the pup to recover quickly. This permits the body systems of a neonatal
pup to experience stress and to overcome it in a controlled environment. This in
turn produces a stronger heart, stronger immune system, stronger nervous system,
and will yield pups that recover from stressful events more quickly later in
life.
Bio-Sensor is a daily, five-part routine, preferably performed at
around the same time each day. These exercises take between 3-5 seconds. Never
exceed 5 seconds or continue beyond 14 days. I begin each exercise for 3 seconds
and build up to the maximum of 5 seconds.
Here are the five steps to Bio-Sensor:
1. Tactile stimulation
Holding the pup firmly, gently rub a cotton swab between the toes for the 3 –
5 seconds
2. Head held erect
Hold the pup firmly with two hands, so that the pups head is pointing upward
for 3 - 5 seconds
3. Head pointed down
Still holding the pup with two hands, turn the pup so that his head is now
pointing downward for 3 - 5 seconds
4. Supine Position
Place the pup with his back in the palm of both hands and the pups muzzle
pointed towards the ceiling for 3 - 5 seconds
5. Thermal stimulation
Place the pup on a damp towel that has chilled in the refrigerator for at
least 5 minutes prior to starting. 3 – 5 seconds
By the time you have completed the Bio-Sensor routine, the pups should have
their eyes and ears open. They will start to become more aware of their
surroundings. At this stage, in addition to daily handling of each pup, I will
softly play classical music for the pups to hear. This forces them to use their
brains in order to figure out the new sounds. At the same time, I will place a
television in the room with the pups. The channel doesn’t matter because I turn
the sound completely down. I use the television to cause changes in the lighting
of the room. I’m sure everyone has seen how a TV changes the lighting in a room
as it switches from scene to scene. I always turn the sound down to prevent the
pup from hearing any undesirable sounds, such as a fight scene on Jerry
Springer.
Beginning at the third week of life, I will add additional
noises during puppy play time. Using aspirin bottles, I place a couple of coins
or washers inside the bottle and tape the lid closed to prevent accidental
openings. I shake the bottle over the play area and then place the bottle in the
area with the pups. My goal is to cause the pups to hear the noise, startle, and
then proceed to investigate the new, noisy object. I will continue to do this
for several weeks. Eventually, I increase the size of the container to a small
coffee can. I also increase the loudness of the noise. Instead of placing the
object into the play area, I toss it in an area where there are no
pups.
At about four weeks of age, I begin to introduce a cloth tied to a
string. My goal is to get the pups to chase and play with the cloth, which will
stimulate their prey drive. If you plan to introduce your pups to any sort of
competition, this will prove to be a valuable tool in the future. Some pups are
ready to chase and play at four weeks of age; others may take another week or
so. Regardless, I offer the cloth at least once a day, for exposure if nothing
else.
This is also a critical age for socialization with other animals.
I try to get my pups outside and begin socializing them to their environment. I
want to introduce them to different footings and new locations. Research by
Scott and Fuller has proven that pups exposed to strangers prior to five weeks
of age were much more social as adults than pups not exposed to strangers during
this time period. Pups that had not been exposed prior to 12 weeks of age were
never comfortable around strangers, and almost never approached a stranger on
their own initiative. Weaning should have begun already, but the pups should
still spend most of their time with mom.
By five weeks of age, a young
puppy’s brain can begin to learn new things that don’t necessarily involve their
natural instincts. I begin obedience and show training at five weeks of age. I
want the pup to know it’s all right for people to touch them, to open their
mouths, to look at their teeth, and to touch all their parts. I treat all pups
the same, even if I know for a fact that a particular pup is not show quality.
I begin all pups on basic obedience --- teaching them a sit, a stand,
and a down. I place the pups on an elevated surface such as a tabletop, and use
treats as incentives, such as peanut butter, cheese, or hotdogs. I am very
careful not to pull or push on a puppy and I always keep the sessions short, two
– three minutes at maximum. At this age the puppies have become quite mouthy. I
try to avoid corrections for biting me or my clothes. Instead, I try to
re-direct the biting to something I approve of, such as a toy, a ball, or a
bone. With most pups this phase doesn’t last long, and if you quickly re-direct
the biting, they soon learn what to chew on. I also want to see how the pups
respond to a ball, such as a tennis ball. I want to encourage the pups to chase
the ball and to return it to me. The pups should still be spending a good deal
of their time with mom. I will begin to remove mom for long periods during the
day and return mom to care for them at night.
By six weeks of age, the
pups are getting to be quite a handful, so I begin to increase their training to
include simple tracking and simple agility exercises. I place a broom handle on
the ground and walk the pup to it, encouraging them to go over it. The obstacle
is small enough for them to walk over, but I add a command and make a big deal
out of it when they accomplish it. This builds their confidence and establishes
a working bond between the pup and its owner. I increase the tracking and
continue with obedience training, remembering never to use corrections. I limit
the mother’s time with the pups to 30 minutes several times a day, returning her
to care for them at night.
By seven weeks of age, I have a good feel for
the pups are excelling at specific activities. Although I will continue to
encourage all pups in the various training exercises, I will begin to focus and
concentrate on their strengths. I remove mom from her nightly caregiver duties,
returning her first thing in the morning for a few minutes and only a few
sessions throughout the day. Most mothers are still teaching valuable lessons
through the end of the seventh week. They learn rules and consequences for
violating those rules. Don’t interfere! She is teaching them valuable rules of
life when she pauses for the pups to nurse and then walks away, or when she
bites the pups. It is highly unlikely that she would hurt her own pups during
this time. By the eighth week, her attitude might be very different!
By
eight weeks of age, it will become more apparent where the pups will be better
suited: in a show home, a pet home, a working home, or just into a nice family
setting. Regardless, you should have very stable puppies with strong working
abilities. Their confidence levels should be very high and they should be full
of attitude --- possessing an “I’m it” way of thinking.